Part 1: EUROPE The high life
Just before Christmas, I bought Cicerone’s “Europe’s High Points” book for a bit of reading over the holidays. This turned from a bit of an interesting diversion to setting my route around Europe which previously was a bit vague to say the least. Several countries (France, Germany, Switzerland) have serious technical peaks that are well beyond me, but looking a bit more to the east, there are plenty of countries with high points that are a tough but achievable trek. Being a bit of a natural collector, ticking off at least half a dozen countries highest points would be as fun a way as any to set a course across Europe to Turkey, where the middle-eastern leg of the trip begins in earnest.
A zig-zagging route takes in 8 countries, 6 of which have interesting looking walks, with a couple of token 'high-points' thrown in:
1. BELGIUM: Signal de Botrange 694m. I came here last year to tick this one off. As the guide book says; “ascent: none, route: none”. That’s a bit harsh, there’s a good 3 metres ascent up a flight of concrete steps set into the side of a small mound to see a plaque obscured by a tree’s canopy. The tower next to the natural high point (694m) is 6 metres taller as its owner thought it would be nice for the highest possible point to be rounded up to a cleaner 700m. Belgium, an orderly place.
2. NETHERLANDS: Vaalserberg 321m. This one looks like a nice lunch spot. At only 321m, you know you’re in a low-lying country when the high point is less than half the height of Belgium’s. There’s a campsite, cafe and highest maze in the Netherlands all close by which should make for a pleasant stay over.
3. POLAND: Rysy 2,500m. The first proper walk of the trip. Rysy is made easier by starting at 1,100m, about the height of Scafell, England’s highest point from which the other 1,400m should make for a full days hard walk. Apparently it’s a bit touch and go if all the snow will have melted from the summit by mid-June, so best remember a fleece for this one.
4. CZECH REPUBLIC: Snezka 1602m. The high point of Slovakia is given a ‘serious technical’ rating, so back tracking a little bit, on the way to Slovenia gives a chance to tick off Snezka in the Czech Republic which has that most welcome of descriptions “cafe on summit”, its a skiing mountain with well laid tracks all the way to the top. With luck there’ll be no late season snow and a lunch stop with great views to be had.
5. SLOVENIA: Triglav 2,864m. I’ve wanted to do Triglav, the only mountain in the world to appear on a national flag, for years after many trips to Slovenia and weather permitting, this will be the year to do it. There’s a steep and fast way up for people fitter than me, but also thankfully a longer way from Lake Bohinj through Triglav Lakes Valley, a 3-4 day route that looks beautiful. This looks the hardest of all these peaks, but from experience pottering around the foothills, should be one of the most scenic too.
6. CROATIA: Dinara 1,831m. Dinara looks interesting as it’s largely set in limestone scenery similar to the Yorkshire Dales at home. I would love to also fit in Maglic in Bosnia, but unfortunately I really want to go to Romania for the Transfagarasan highway and a beautiful walk to its highest point that starts from that road, so even though its the less scenic of the two, I’ll hope to make time for Croatia and Bosnia maybe another time.
7. ROMANIA: Moldoveanu 2,544m. Aside from Top Gear’s favourite road in Europe being very close by, the mountain scenery around Moldoveanu looks full or ridges and interest like Helvellyn, so worth a huge detour here in its own right. Looks to be a two day walk with an overnight stay at a refuge which are notoriously basic.
8. BULGARIA: Musala 2,925. Bulgaria was never on my to-do list, but its the most logical way from Romania to Turkey, and by chance, its highest peak, Musala, looks stunningly beautiful, having the look of Scafell with extra tarns and being a skiing mountain in winter, plenty of mountain huts to grab refreshments en-route.
After this, Turkey and Iran become problematic as their highest points are in contested areas of the country, Turkey requiring official guides costing several hundred pounds to accompany you up Mount Ararat which isn’t my thing. After this, well then there’s the Himalayas which should pass a few tiring weeks!
