05 - 09 Nov: Nepal - Lumbini to Pokhara

Packing our bags early due to an ongoing lack of water at the cabin in Chitwan, it was just good to hit the road to Lumbini and hopefully find a hot shower there. The rain clouds had passed leaving a hot and humid day ahead which was mostly spent cruising easy miles down a single carriageway motorway that runs the length of Nepal. 

The longest part of the run took us to Butwal for a late lunch of samosas whilst speaking to a local guy studying English literature. The last leg to Lumbini, a tricky little village to find close to the Indian border was more taxing with huge Tata trucks bringing most of Nepal’s imports in across the busiest border at Sonauli. After riding in circles for some time, we finally stumbled across a dirt track that encircles the temples and heritage sites of Lumbini.

Riverside life on the road to Lumbini

Cows acting as a traffic island nr Butwal

Though we were already behind on our programme, finding a hotel with hot water and the fact night was already falling meant we opted for two nights instead of the one we’d hoped to spend there. As it turned out, despite the food situation which was desperately lacking, the extra day was more than worth it. Hiring two bicycles we spent a full day touring Buddha’s birthplace. Apparently scholars have traced the exact birth location of the founder of Buddhism to a small pond and grove of trees which is now the heart of a series of temples build by Buddhist communities across the world.

The actual birthplace is enclosed in a white walled building in which there is no photography allowed. Essentially though all it consists of is a wooden walkway crossing an excavated area of earth to a small plaque with two donations boxes. The rest of the site hosts architecturally stunning temples, particularly those from Thailand and one under construction from the Koreans. Only permitting development of temples in the 80’s, its odd to see so much modern construction and painting of temples that are styles to look as if they should be hundreds of years old.

Nepalese people love having their photos taken

Buddha's birthplace

Freshly painted details on a temple

Korean temple under construction

Asia cycling around Lumbini

Me riding around Lumbini

Colourful prayer flags

Spending a day peddling round in the sun was a great antidote to the cold rain the day before. The sky hadn’t changed from its heavy set clouds covering the mountain views when we set off to ride the Siddhartha Highway the next day. Fortunately, as if on cue, the mist dissipated giving us stunning mountain views for the full days ride to Pokhara. At well over 200kms, mostly on tightly twisting mountain roads, it was one of the longest days in the saddle for either of us in a long time.

Despite the distance, after taking an early stop to change the oil on Asia’s bike, we made plenty of time to stop for drinks and photo breaks. Nepal has a habit of not letting you ride too far before throwing up some wonderful scene, whether people or countryside. Admiring the view I shortcutted a roundabout (it was heavily offset to the left looking more like a junction than anything else) causing a policeman to jump into the road and stop to explain our punishment. We had to turn around, ride 50 metres back and do it properly, after we did that successfully, it was thumbs up all round as they let us ride on, lesson learned.

Lunch break

Lunch break

Bridge on the Siddharha highway

Another rest break

First clear views of the mountains around Pokhara

The rest of the ride to Pokhara flew by with many breaks to enjoy the plentiful views which were far too expansive to detail here as this update is coming the night before we set off for a 10 day trek around the Annapurna Sanctuary so is a little rushed! 

More details and hopefully lots of mountain photos in a couple of weeks.